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Moving to Milan

Posted by in on Feb 26, 2015 . 0 Comments.

And so we find ourselves in Italy, sadly only via our computer screens for this is where the shows have moved this week. Milan usually gives us sexy, think Tom Ford in his Gucci years.  So it seems fitting to start there, with Gucci. Gucci has had a turbulent few months with both its CEO and Creative Director, Frida Giannini leaving.  It was widely expected that Giannini would step down this week following her final collection, but instead she left in the New Year along with her partner (the aforementioned CEO). A replacement was soon found in the shape of Alessandro Michele, its former head of accessories. But given he was promoted to this position on the 21st January he didn't have long to stamp his mark on the collection. This new Gucci appeared more dishevelled student (albeit one on a big budget) than sleek hipster. The range showed some smart tailoring with exaggerated pressed creases in unusual places. There was more fur on show here too. Mainly as trims on cuffs but also lining shoes and clogs.  Jewellery came in the shape of longer length fine necklaces with little charms and very chunky rings. A highlight though was beautiful beaded and appliqued bird flying down a neckline or on the back of jumpers. Gorgeous and potentially difficult for the High Street to copy (but I'm kind of hoping they manage it).

At D&G the over-riding theme was family. Along with the more familiar Sicilian lace and red rose motifs, there were models with young children on their hips and babes in arms. Jewelled hairbands featured as did fur trimmed headphones. The sweetest details though was childrens' hand drawn pictures embroidered and appliqued onto dresses.  

Marni's girl looked like an urban warrior with wide cut hems, frayed edges and plenty of python skin on belts, boots and slung across the body. The earring were oversized discs or spheres, and necklaces chunky collars or sets. One couldn't get away from fur either as there were fur sleeves, fur pockets, fur collars and patchworked together on a tunic.

Pucci saw Peter Dundas' last collection for the house, he's been quiet on why or where so we'll keep an eye on any news. There were plenty of op art prints in black and white. The fur coats looked strong, as did the long, chiffon scarlet dress, bright grass green  dress and Marsala again, with accessories looking particularly strong. Finally he chose to focus on astrology with star signs of the models featurung on their dresses.

Versace used digital symbols to spell out its message and again used flashes of bright green along with canary yellow. Skinny, coloured chokers looked good with the simple silhouettes. The Versace Greek key was also a huge influence and appeared as chokers and on tights . 

Bottega Veneta sent its models out wearing lurex foil dots to bring a touch of '70's disco to the catwalk. The shades soon went from white and tan to bright and yet again, green. Statement necklaces looked stunning.

 

Last update: Mar 03, 2015

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