This week the fashion juggernaut has stopped in Paris, home to many key houses. First up though Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, the little sister to the main collection. The show stuck with the classic stripes that the range is known for but also added in some stars and a sprinkling of faux fur too. Jewellery was kept to a minimum with a giant paperclip used as a brooch on a jumpsuit or as a detail at the waist.
Possibly my favourite collection so far was Dries Van Noten. It all looked instantly wearable and covetable - surely two things all designers should aim to be. The look was a clash of couture and casual (his words, not mine) so pretty much each outfit came with wide legged combat style trousers in a chino fabric. Colour combinations were pale pink and gold, navy and tan (again), olive and purple and masala wine and navy, I'm also adding in this mash up just because it's so gorgeous! Statement neckwear accompanied nearly every look with fabric flowers and feathers on jumbo twisted cord.
Celine saw Phoebe Philo show a more grown up / dressed up collection. The show opened with a model wearing a jumper with huge cuffs and cutwork trousers which was followed by an animal print coat. Boiled wool dresses were worn with stark make-up, colours were tan, orange and black and shoes were a new spin on the success of the previous seasons' skater shoe. Jewellery was still minimal with graduated metal ball earrings, and flower necklaces on long chains.
And so to Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent. The collection grew on the success of his recent seasons at the house. It was very much rock chick with a splash of punk make up inspired by Siouxie Sioux. There were mini crini skirts and ripped tights, slashed leather and extreme split dresses, all finished with leather boots. Jewellery followed suit with chain chokers, and leather necklaces. Net trims appeared on bags and as pom poms. The whole show was a very different spin on the '70's themes seen elsewhere.
At Chanel the Grand Palais was transfomed into a chic cafe to promote the launch of the Cafe Society range of jewellery but which followed on nicely from AW14's super successful model supermarket. Cara Delevigne opened the show with dark make-up and slicked hair and wearing a super-sized quilted jacket. There was also more jumbo quilting worn by Kendal Jenner and net skirts worn over skinny black pants. A thick cardigan shoulder-robed over velvet and worn with tailored jeans and layers of chains at the neck and waist was about as casual as this customer gets. The 60's vibe again made an appearance in the shape of an A-line net dress and a giant crystal choker, but also with stacked cuffs.
Stella McCartney knows her customer and sent out a collection guaranteed to make them happy. The show opened with handkerchief hems and godets on trousers as well as deep cuffs all which looked fresh for winter. Fur-free fur coats looked lovely after seeing so many natural pelts during the other shows. Jewellery was double strands of pearls twisted at the neck.
Sarah Burton took the rose as her inspiration and it's lifecycle from budding to full flower to wilting petals. Hair was messy and piled high, faces were pale and powdered and jewellery kept to a minimum but for high collared lace chokers. The collection centred around black, nude and cream but was shot through with the occasional red, masala and bright pink.
Paul & Joe is always a favourite of this Lovett lady so it was pleasing to see such a strong collection of items that one probably already has a version of already and can therefore replicate the look come September. Pretty much all the outfits featured frills in some shape or form from collars to cuffs to plackets. Velvet looked gorgeous in mink brown paired with a pale peach ruffle front blouse and a bit 60's in a shift dress. The 70's made an appearance again in a smudgy floral chiffon dress with a chunky shearling coat over the top. A little bit of subtle sparkle arrived in a striped lurex top and not-so-subtle in a midi length dress in gorgeous shades.
Valentino looked utterly beautiful with gentle A-line silhouettes, high-necked blouses, culottes and capes. There was gold-leaf on fur coats, lots of coloured and layered lace and a Celia Birtwell designed dragon. The outstanding pieces were a patchwork hooded coat and dress, the outstanding moment had to be Zoolander and Hansel blue steeling their way down the catwalk for the finale!